A perfect Tulum Sunday

Sundays in Tulum always bring with them a promise of something special. Of an especially good day. Families are waking up later then the required time for school and special breakfasts are prepared all over town - and many restaurants around Tulum prepare Barbacoa. This special dish is a real treat and is usually found only on Sunday's.

This Sunday was a particularly PERFECT Sunday in Tulum. We woke up early- although later then normal and that is always welcome. I spent a little time learning my way around I tunes and loading up the ipod that my mom had given me. After making a perfect- sit back and chill play list I headed out to hang in my new hammock. I have wanted a hammock for a long time. We used to have 1 but it was made of much thicker material (like the ones back in the states) and it really hurt to lay in. Then, a kitten staying at our house went to town on a few of the strings and it was never suitable again.

This year for my birthday- I had received a hammock as a gift and I was about to go and enjoy it. I literally laid in my hammock in my garden for about 2 hours listening to music and watching the clouds go by. Remember as a child when you would see so many great images in the sky? Well, there were a ton of great clouds and then floated past my little garden all morning. I saw all sort of great stuff... a dragon - a witch on a broom- a old man sucking on a tobacco pipe. It was a very nice morning.

After a little while I came into the house and we got all of our stuff ready for the week, picked up the house and got ready to head out to the jungle. Parties in the jungle here are always amazing but I knew that this particular party was going to be truly magical.

Our good friends live out on km 26 in the jungle and this family is the truest testament to eco living. A small structure sits in the front of the property where this amazing family lives. But as you walk back on the path into the jungle you come upon some really amazing finds. about 50 km back there is a beautiful clearing complete with campfires and a large open space to dance.

The purpose of this event is to celebrate the love that my dear friends have for one another. They were celebrating their 13 year anniversary and this party was filled with love, happiness and friends. All off the kids were running around the enchanting jungles of Tulum- and were rewarded by amazing sites of reindeer- tropical birds and cool bugs to follow around.

The rest of us were enjoying the sounds of Facuno's dj talents and enjoying the wonderful food and friends that had gathered around us. A real collection of some of the very best people in Tulum. Artists, musicians, massage therapists, parents, kids and friends!!! It was a gathering of people that surround their world with magic.

Just as the dark set in and the jungle was showing just how dark it can get - the beautiful voice of 1 young woman rings over the speaker. Her voice was so beautifully intoxicating. It had that tone from old French music from the 20s. It was beautiful. We could have easily listened to her all night but alas the generator had different plans. It ran out of gas but that was not going to be the end of our good time.

All of our other friends gathered up their instruments that were scattered around and started playing. The drums, guitar, the voices created this soft chant from everyone around. It was amazing.

In addition to just being filled with love, acceptance and friendship- this family is as eco friendly as you could possibly be. Gardens can be found through growing tomatoes, chilies and spices. Small pathways through the jungle lead to outdoor composting toilets, and others lead to naturally made temazcal. With the kids we did not get to stay for the temazcal this time but I am looking forward to the day that I do.

After coming home and putting the kids to bed I laid in my hammock once again- rather then the cup of coffee from the morning- this time I had a cold beer- a cool breeze- and the thoughts from a PERFECT Tulum Sunday.

I hope yours went well too!

Living in Tulum

So, you want to live in Tulum? I always get the question… “What is it like to live in Tulum?” “How much do I need to live on in Tulum?” and “Are there jobs in Tulum?” Here is my answer…Since this whole blog is about my experiences living here this information is based on how I live and how I know that some others live.

When I moved to Mexico a good friend of mine said 2 things that I have found to be pearls of wisdom here. 1) “If you go to Mexico and try to find ‘Rice-a-Roni’ and focus on the fact that you cannot find it -you will be miserable. But if you focus on the fact that just bought 3 pineapples for a dollar- then you will be thrilled.”
This is very true. Not in many of the big cities but in the smaller towns and villages it is very true. I in fact started a whole blog about my new cooking life here in Mexico because I cannot find the things that I am used to having around so I have to learn new ways to use things.

Now, for living in Tulum and what it is like to live in Tulum. The 2nd thing my friend said to me is also very true, “to live in Mexico is very inexpensive. But to buy anything in Mexico is expensive.” The cost of living here is very low but, especially in the touristy areas like Tulum, the cost of buying anything is near what you would pay in the states. A soda is a dollar, a cocktail is 4 or5 dollars and cloths are 15-30 bucks a piece. While things are cheaper than they are in the states, they are still pretty high, especially when you think about how much we make.

So here is the breakdown.
Housing: rents range from 2000 pesos for a room sometimes with a little furniture and small kitchen sink. You basic little house (2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms) with a little yard is around 4000-6000 pesos per month depending on how nice people have made them. There are some nice apartments and condos and small houses that rent for 9,000+ pesos a month as well.

Utilities: Our utilities are internet, cable, water and electricity. The city takes care of garbage. There is currently no recycling pick up (we are all working on changing this) For cable and internet we pay 550 pesos for the higher speed internet and about 60 channels (5 or so in English) Water is about 150-200 pesos a month. And electric can range between 200-400 hundred pesos in the lower months but in the hot summer months when we are running our fans a lot it is about 800-1000 pesos a month. If you have air conditioning it can be upwards of 2,000 pesos.

Food and water: We cannot drink the water out of the tap here so we buy large 20 L. bottles for 23 pesos. We use about 3 or 4 a week. I would say we spend about 300 pesos a month on water. And for food- we budget 1000 pesos a week for food. ****There are some great fruiterias and meat stores in town and these are a great way to get fresh, local ingredients and support the local economy!!!****

If you do not have a car transportation is another thing to think about. Taxis are cheap and so are the collectives. Bikes are a very easy and fast way to get around Tulum as well.


As for jobs: Yes there are jobs- it gets really slow during certain times of the year but there is work to be found. Sept and Oct. are the best months to move and start looking for a job. Tulum is also a great place for people who want to start something of their own.

My husband has a good job. He speaks English and Spanish and makes around 10,000-13,000 pesos a month. There are better jobs and worse jobs as well and pay can fluctuate.

Well, I hope that this helps any of you that are interested in moving to Tulum. It is a wonderful place and I love living here. If you have more specific questions, feel free to email me.

Sushill-Out in Tulum now delivers

I was so excited the other day when I went to my local corner store to pick up my fresh tortillas and saw a little flyer promoting Sushill-Out's new delivery service. As a person from downtown San Francisco, the idea of different types of food that can be delivered to me is just wonderful.

When I first moved here, Sushill-Out was located on one of my favorite little streets in Tulum. On it there was an Italian restaurant (Dolci Sapori) French- Le Bistro - Sushill-Out- clearly sushi- and Elements- a great fresh cafe. Sushill-Out has moved over towards the center of town on the main avenue 1 block before the main plaza. - The location is wonderful.

Their grand opening had some wonderful artwork from a local artist and some great music provided by a local dj. The atmosphere is fun and hip. Luis and Erika have put a lot of care and detail into this new location and I know that it is going to do well.

With 2 kids and no car- getting around sometimes can be hard and although I love the location- the ambiance really gets destroyed by a 5 and 6 year old. Although it is funny because sushi is one of my daughters all time FAVORITE foods. I remember one time we were picking up my mom up at the airport in SF - and my daughter looks up at me and says "I am hungry mommy and I really want some sushi." This provided quite the giggle to the people around given that Lena was barely 5! So there she sat while my mom pulled up trying to master her chopsticks. So see- if you are one of those people who says- eeeeeewwww Sushi- and have not even tried it... try to be more open to it... a 4 year old was.

So Lena could not be more thrilled that we can now order the sushi to come to our house. When we are out of food at the house and I tell the kids we need to go to the store... their response is "we could get sushi at the house."

Yes...Yes we can!!!! Thank you Sushill-Out. I will get their number and post it soon!!!

Tulum Living School Project

I have a new idea that I am really excited about. In all of my talking with people, going back and forth on forums and answering people's emails I have come to notice something. Well, 2 things really.

1) There are so many people that LOVE Tulum. Some people that live here, that have lived here, visited here once or come every year- they just love it. They love the people, they love the culture, they love the beaches, they love the beautiful sea.

and 2) That there is a strong need for improvements in Tulum's schools and simply not enough money going to them.

Just like in the US and everywhere else, the public schools of Tulum never have enough money to get all of the things that they need. Schools are trying hard just to get through the school year with the supplies that they need. There is never enough money to put towards the bigger things that the school needs.

This has come full force to me recently because of my own children. In my sons school there are a few things that are really needed to be a fun and safe place for kids that under 6 years old. Broken, metal play ground equipment, NO shade so NO running outside etc. The same is true at my daughters school. There are almost no totally functioning bathrooms, all need repairs etc. I started to think that there must be a similar case at every school. Sure enough, the moment I started to talk to my friends about the schools their kids were in --- it was clear. TulumLiving.com needs to set up some sort of a donation thing.

I used to work on a lot of fundraising projects with my mom in Portland, OR with Doernbecher Children's Hospital and the Women for Children group. I remember my mom telling me that usually the hardest part of getting anything done is all of the people you have to go though to do it. All it takes is organization and a way to communicate. Well, I am a stage manager in the theater so anality is right up my alley. And as for communication... god bless the Internet.

So here is what I propose... I am going to go to each public school here in Tulum and talk to the head of their parent/teacher association and ask them what their big want it for their school. The one that is too big to ever get done but too small for the gov't to take care of.

I am going to list them all on 1 post with the name of the school/ the name of the director/ the number to the director/ and the want for the school. As people donate I will keep a running log on www.TulumLiving.com under the tab Help Tulum's Schools tab. As the amount is reached we will execute the need and do a post on Tulum Living. When a payment is made - we will mark it off and go to the next school.

I am so excited I can hardly type fast enough. I am expecting that most of these projects will be in the 20000-40000 peso area. That is about $1,470 to $3,000. I am excited. Okay. so.. I will start the page now. I will need a week or so to get the info from the schools and a separate bank account set up for this project!!! Yeah. I am so excited. Please free to contact me if you have any question.

Check in at Help Tulum's Schools to watch our progress and for more information about how to help out.

Dutzi Design Inc.***

Okay… this is a long one but it is worth every line

It is not very often that you hear about something that someone is doing and it just makes you smile from the inside. Well, the project of Dutzi Designs Inc. is one such story. !!!


The project is that of Ariane Dutzi. Ariane lives here in the Yucatan and has started a line, Dutzi Designs Inc., to help the communities of the Yucatan. As a former fashion editor from New York and Paris, she moved to Mexico where she is making an impact in the beautiful community that she is now a part of.


When the Swine Flu scare erupted in Mexico last April it created a mass exodus of tourists in the Yucatan and the communities of the area really suffered. As the “infodemic” spun out of control, a whole bunch of totally healthy people sat in the deserted towns of the Yucatan and then found themselves without people to sell their handiwork to. Ariane has since developed the Dutzi Design Rescue Bag. Complete with a label befitting of the project, a small outlined face of a pig, these bags are as eco-friendly green as they are well made and beautiful.


The whole project really is something special. As a way of helping the Mayan community that lives in the areas around Valladolid, about 70 women as well as some men make each and every bag. The project is not only a means for so many women to help provide for their families, but also helps preserve the beautiful culture of the indigenous Maya. With all of the proceeds from the sales of the bag going directly into the project, this community of women continues to be able to help sustain themselves especially in a time where so many of us here in the Yucatan are feeling the devastating consequences of the hype of the swine flu.


Here is a bit of history about how such a special project came to be. Ariane is an amazingly beautiful woman who after being born in Germany moved to Paris to study at the Sorbonne. After graduation Ariane got a job as a foreign correspondent for a German publication. Due to her location in Paris, fashion was the tallest order. During the reign of top supermodels and skyrocketing talent in the design world, Ariane had the privilege of interviewing and working with some of the most talented designers in the world. Having had studied history Ariane had an interest in fashion’s history and the artisans that made such wonderful pieces.


She told me a beautiful story about one example of stories that she loved to do. It was of the artisans who made the soles for Chanel shoes and Gucci shoes. It was only these very specific artisans that did the soles in a traditional way. The use of chemicals, if any at all, where minimal and the result was sole for a shoe fit for Hera herself. As I am sure anyone who owns a pair of Chanel shoes will attest to. She told me how the stories of these artisans, their craft and the devotion they give such a craft really intoxicated her. It intoxicated me just listening to it. After her move to Mexico, she found a similar passion for the artisans in her new home country. But more on that in a minute, I jump ahead of myself.



Ariane then came to Mexico for a vacation in the beautiful town of Cuernavaca just outside of Mexico City. Known as the “City of Eternal Spring” for its year long perfect weather, it was over… the love obsession had begun.


Ariane took this time in her life to figure out the passions that she wanted to follow. Not quiet sure which way she was going to take herself, she headed to Tulum. Working in the hotel industry, Ariane got to stretch her creativity and interest in design in to decorating and furniture design. She helped design, promote and staff not just one Coqui Coqui hotel… but 3, Tulum, Coba and Valladolid. After investing much energy and love into these projects Ariane once again went to New York for inspiration for her next path.


This next path turned out to be working with an old friend from the fashion industry to open a vintage discovery showroom. Not a store, but more an inspirational space for designers and artists to come and get inspired. Working with wonderful textures and colors and looking at things from the past in a new light is what sparked the fuse that lead the way for Ariane’s next direction. It was hear that she began to learn the skill of noticing 1 small detail or 1 texture and create a whole concept out of it.


Now back in Mexico, she began to make beautiful bags from vintage materials. Being very drawn to burlap, the bags began to take shape organically as she rediscovered the Mexico that she had left. The straps are all hand made by the indigenous Maya who have crafted such belts for generations. More and more Ariane needed help to craft the bags that had become so popular. At one point, Ariane had to make a choice. Was she going to commit 100% and dive fully into her project and trust in the Universe to take care of her or go back? Luckily for us all she chose to invest fully into the project.


As she needed more and more help she befriended and employed more and more Mayan women from her community. What blossomed out of this first year was a workshop in which women in the community began to learn about their finances and how to have some control over them.


The most important thing about the workshop as it developed was that these women were able to remain the women that were before with the duties that they had before. To celebrate all of the things that makes us all such remarkable women. We have the special gift of taking care of our families needs, being there for our families and wanting to be able to enjoy our families and Ariane did not want these women to give any of that up just so they could work as well.



I have not even started to tell you about the amazing bags themselves… these bags, made of vintage burlap or 100% recycled white raffia. They are absolutely beautiful and are not only made by hand with love and care but, probably because of that fact, are incredibly well made.


In addition to the “Rescue Bag” Ariane’s whole line of couture bags are being sold in stores and boutiques all over New York as well as in Paris, Santa Fe, Malibu, CA, Mexico and over the internet. One of the best ways to get your own Rescue Bag is to drive over and see the project for yourself. Valladolid is a beautiful town about an hour from Tulum and wonderfully worth a visit. What a fantastic souvenir of a trip to the Yucatan. Luckily you can also buy one online and have it sent to you. Check out the website with information about how to purchase your very own bag.


These bags are perfect for both men and women. I especially love the bike messenger bag for men. These bags reflect both a consciousness for the earth and an effort to protect and cherish it, but also for the wonderful communities of Mayan women in the Yucatan.


I am so excited to see that the very first couture Dutzi dress has just been made. I cannot wait to see as more and more clothing comes from these guys. The furniture designed by Dutzi Designs is stunning as well. I will be getting more info about the clothing and furniture and will post again. Stay tuned.

So…. Do you want to help… can you help… If yes… here are a few ways that you can…
• If you, or anyone you know, own a shop or a boutique and would like to carry Dutzi Designs in your store, you can get in touch with Ariane (or me if you want)
• You can order a bag online directly from the source.
• If you are vacationing in Mexico, you can arrange to see the project and the beautiful town of Valladolid and pick up the absolutely BEST souvenir in Mexico.
• You can simply donate to the project via their website
• If you are getting married and are looking for the perfect bridesmaid gifts, these stunning bags and clutches are the perfect reminder of a perfect Mexican wedding (and the Karma points!!!)
• If you are looking for the perfect auction item… imagine a beautiful Dutzi Design couture bag filled with stunning crafts, clothing and tokens of the beautiful Mayan culture. I would be happy to help you put something together (I am sure Ariane could help as well.) What a perfect way to help 2 causes at once.
• Tell everyone you know about the project because it is a really special one.

Dia de la Independcia!!! Viva Mexico!! Viva Yucatan!!!

As every single person in the country knows... yesterday (Sept. 16th) was Independence Day in Mexico! The whole country, the entire state and everyone in Tulum was all set for the festivities.

First a bit of history. El Grito! On September 16th Mexicans everywhere take the time to celebrate Mexico's liberation from Spanish control. The Spanish who had came to the shores of Mexico in 1521 began their rule over Mexico and the indigenous Mayan and Aztec civilizations that lived here. Jump ahead to 1810- after much of the native population had been devastated from illness, heavy work load and mistreatment by those that ruled- the seed of revolt began to flourish.

As Spain was taken by Napoleon in 1808, the people within Mexico began to see the opportunity to sever from Spain and gain their independence. In the morning hours of September 16th father Hidalgo and others first rang the bells at a small church at Dolores Guanajuato. The chime of these bells, that night began the Independence War that lasted for over 10 years.




As my husband is from Guanajuato, he loves to always point out to me that Guanajuato is where the Independence started. After the bells rang out, Hidalgo gave orders to his followers to retaliate against every native Spaniard in Dolores.





The same "Cry of Dolores" that was heard that first night can still be heard in every small town at midnight on September 15th. A reminder and an homage to the impulsive yet critical actions of Father Hidalgo and his parishioners that fateful night.

El Grito de Dolores, "Mexicanos, viva Mexico,"

Now that the stage is set... Here in Tulum the festivities were just as they are in every other town. centro was all set with lights that shine in the expected red, white and green. Stages were ready for the wonderful bands that would be going on in the early hours on the morning.

Armed with the kids and an expectation of a patriotic evening, we set out to centro. the kids in their traditional wear all set out to make themselves sick on rides and dulces and agua frescas.

In addition to the festivities in centro there were many wonderful parties all over town. From Ocho Tulum and Om with their VIVA MEXICO parties to Ultra lounge in pueblo. Everyone offering great specials on traditional drinks and food.



We began our night watching the wonderful performances from the classes at "la casa de cultura." I was very impressed with the young ladies and they did a wonderful job. I was very impressed by the traditional bottle dance during which the young lady must dance in a very long dress with a glass bottle on her head.




Although there continued to be wonderful performances on the stage, we strolled over towards the rides and food!!! The kids went immediately to the bounce house. This is a clever contraption basically of 4 large trampolines connected by little slide and a passage way. Well worth the 40 pesos per kid for 10 minutes and I must say a smart business idea. Other then traditional inflatable bounce houses that we are used to that use a ton of energy to operate.


The kids went on a few rides and I watched in horror wondering if they were going to make it off. My son, the crazy one, full of the spirit of Achilles himself, jumped onto the moving carousel ride and then as I ran after him frightened out of my mind--- he dove off!! AHHHH! Ninos!!! But all was well and we had a great time.

The men pretty quickly ran over to find the drinks and in 1 of the largest cups I have ever seen was my margarita on the rocks. Many other options were also available. I do not quiet understand some of the glassware choices and I am not sure what I would do if I saw someone licking the chili and salt from this glass but I am sure it was happening with out my paying attention.


The kids did their best to make themselves sick on rides that went around and around - on cars that went up and down and stuffing themselves with carnival treats.

The festivities in the central park got more and more active as the 11:00 hour approached. The music from the marching band sang out as the marines stepped forward on stage and waved the Mexican flag. The state song of Quinatna Roo rang out among the crowd and was followed by the exhilarating Mexican National Anthem.

The Presidente then stepped forward to recite El Grito. The crowd did as it was supposed to and responded with an animated and lively VIVA!!! After each name was called of the heros who first began the Independence from Spain the crowd grew louder and louder.



After all the "VIVA MEXICO"s were shouted the traditional fireworks began. It was a beautiful site that made the first Independence Day celebration from the newly created municipality of Tulum of total success.



As the mother of 2 young children that were at this point only being held awake by the loud blast of the fireworks above I was the honorary person who got to go home while all the boys continued their adventure.



The next day there was not shortage of celebration. Although the crowds around town and on the beaches were more tranquil from the success of the night before, Dia de la Independencia is in Mexico much the same as in the USA... the perfect opportunity to take the day, celebrate with friends and family that you are in your country... that it is YOUR country... and that you get to be part of such a special place.

We spent our morning at the beach party at Ocho Tulum. The music could be be heard pumping prideful music as we sipped our margaritas and snacked on Ocho's amazing food.

The rest of the day was spent swimming, bbqing, eating, drinking, laughing and just enjoying being Mexican. just as Father Hidalgo would have wanted it I am sure! The pride that has been felt through out Tulum, Quintana Roo and the whole great country of Mexico can be felt everywhere you go.

Viva Mexico!!!

Charlie's Restaurant -Bar and Gallery ***

Charlies restaurant, bar and gallery sit in the middle of Tulum pueblo on the main avenue of Tulum. This is a very lively spot that has as much activity bustling inside of it as there are color that surround it.

With the front part of the restaurant right on the main Avenue it is a great spot for people watching. But if you are looking for a more secluded time, step further back into the restaurant to the open courtyard and art gallery in the back.

This part of the restaurant is where all of the action can be seen for the wonderful performances that come through. Flamenco performances are common here in the busier season and are a real treat to see. During the slow season there is a little bit less action unfortunately but Charlie's is always a good time.

One of my favorite things about Charlie's is that it is so easy to wait for people who are coming to town on the ADO bus. The ADO bus station is right next door to Charlie's. With the buses never having an exact timing- I always tell people to meet me at Charlie's. That way I can sit there and enjoy a drink and a snack and wait for them in comfort instead of just sitting in the bus station. And on the flip side, if my friend gets in early then they can sit and relax while they wait for me to show up.

The food at Charlie's covers the spectrum of Mexican cuisine. Not a huge amount of surprises. The food is usually pretty good. There are a number of things that I wish had a lot more spice but I think that is a side effect of living in the Yucatan and getting used to putting hot sauce on EVERYTHING. The guacamole is not my favorite. It is more cream than I like. I am once again a little picky on this. I like my guacamole very chunky and with very few ingredients. But I also only need to make enough for my family so that probably makes a difference.

The ambiance at Charlie's is one of the best in town. With a remarkable collection of artwork all over the walls, you cannot step into Charlie's and feel sad. The colors and the life of the place simply will not allow for it.

I love getting a margarita (served in the appropriate short and thick glass- rather then the atrocious and garish huge fish bowl.) These margaritas are well made, and strong. This is one of me favorite places to grab a margarita.

Also the sopa de Lima is great. My kids love it and it has a ton of flavor. the fish dishes here are great and I cannot wait to try some more of the food. If you like your food hotter I would ask them to bring you some hot salsa. The salsa at the table is great as well.


Right in the center of Tulum town right next to the ADO. a fantastic spot for life music, amazing art work, killer margaritas, and really great people. A trip to Tulum is always improved by a trip to Charlies.